Tutorial: Sewing elastic to a dress's waistline

Why sew elastic into a dress's waist?

First, let's start at the beginning. Why sew elastic into the waist of a dress? What's the point, really? Let me tell you a little story. Once upon a time, there was a very pretty dress lovingly sewn by your own hands. It was magnificent, you really liked it. Yes, but (because there is a 'but', otherwise I wouldn't be writing this article!)... this dress, however beautiful it was, stayed day after day in your closet. (Come on, are you going to tell us what's wrong with this dress today or tomorrow!) Do you want to know why? Well, I'll tell you. It stayed day after day in your closet, because this dress, however splendid it was, didn't cinch the waist. And you, you found it pretty, but you really, really preferred dresses that cinched the waist. You tried to wear it, but each time, you'd think: "If only it cinched the waist... it would be absolutely perfect!"

Well, you know what? That's where I come in! Like the Fairy Godmother with her magic wand. Here I am with my tutorial and my elastic (and it rhymes! :) ).

And now you're thinking: "Alright, send the tutorial!"

So here it is, the tutorial for sewing elastic into the seam allowance. And if you hadn't yet understood the purpose of this tutorial, well, it will allow you to make a seam elastic without having to create a casing to thread the elastic through. This is very practical when you have a rather loose dress and want to define your waist. The only thing you need is an existing seam at the waist (or at least in that area) so you can attach your elastic there.

Step 1: Choosing the elastic

1. Take elastic 6 to 8 mm wide. No wider, as it will need to "fit" into the seam allowance, which is often 1 cm. Of course, if your seam allowance is 1.5 cm, well, let's be crazy, you can use elastic up to 12 mm.

2. Measure the required elastic length: measure your waist circumference and subtract several centimeters so that the elastic is under tension. The elastic needs to be "taut" to do its job at the waist, while remaining comfortable. Generally, I remove about 10% of the length (for a waist circumference of 70 cm, I remove 7 cm). However, this can vary depending on the elastic used: the "softer" the elastic, the more length you'll need to remove; the "stiffer" it is, the less you'll need to remove.

Step 2: Preparation

The elastic will be attached in the seam allowance (you understood that) which is located between the bodice and the skirt of your very pretty dress.

1. On the wrong side of your magnificent dress, mark the center front and back, as well as the quarter points (which can roughly correspond to the side seams, we're not down to the exact centimeter).

2. Place pins in the middle of the elastic, then at the quarter points; these will serve as markers.

3. Pin the elastic to the seam allowance, aligning the markers: start by pinning one end to the center back, then the 1st quarter to the 1st side, the middle of the elastic to the center front, and finally the other quarter to the second side. There will be a free section of elastic left that you will attach afterward.

Step 3: Watch out, it's going to prick!

1. At the center back, secure the end of the elastic with a backstitch.

2. Select a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine.

3. Sew from one marker to the other, stretching the elastic between two markers (initially, you may need to guide your work under the presser foot, pulling slightly from behind).

4. When you reach the free end, pin it to the center back and finish your seam. Do a backstitch.

Step 4: Try it on!

All that's left is to put on your dress (what am I saying, your magnificent dress!) and admire the result! It's beautiful, isn't it?

You can use this tutorial to "hack" (modify) any dress (or blouse) that has a seam between the bodice and the skirt at your waist. It's also possible if this seam is located under the bust!

I hacked the Chavire dress this way, and some of my testers hacked the Chavafroncer dress!

Chavire!